An introduction to Koh Phi Phi in Thailand - diving, day trip, where to stay, how to get there

Phi Phi Islands guide

Azure waters are typical on Phi Phi island
Azure waters are typical on Phi Phi island

Known as the ‘Jewels of the Andaman Sea’, the six islands that make up the Koh Phi Phi group are known as Phi Phi Don, Phi Phi Leh, Bamboo Island, Yung Island, Bida Nok and Bida Nai. Phi Phi Don is the only inhabited island of the six but the others are easily reached from Phuket or Phi Phi Don.

Phi Phi is best known for its starring role in the hit film ‘The Beach’ and if you think that the stunning scenery was Hollywood magic, then think again. The natural beauty of Phi Phi is simply astounding and even jaded expats find themselves in awe the first time they visit this paradise. Majestic limestone cliffs rise straight out of the water to create a maze of channels and inlets that conceal hidden lagoons and tiny beaches of pristine white sand.

Phi Phi Leh is perhaps the most magnificent of the six islands and its sheer walls conceal many hidden lagoons, including the fantastic Maya Bay, used as the hidden lagoon in ‘The Beach’. Yung Island and Bamboo Island are also home to some amazing beaches, while Bida Nok and Bida Nai are little more than rocks in the water. The best scenery of the Bida Islands is underwater and the two are considered to be among the best diving and snorkelling spots in the Andaman Sea. The visibility is amazing (20 metres on average) and the variety and colour of coral and sea creatures is simply staggering.

The spectacular site of Phi Phi Don is 90 minutes away by boat
The spectacular site of Phi Phi Don is 90 minutes away by boat

The main island of the chain, Phi Phi Don, was devastated by the Boxing Day Tsunami of 2004 and the giant waves washed completely over the narrow strip of land between the twin bays. Nearly every building in the most developed centre of the island was wiped out and 700 people, Thai and foreigner alike, lost their lives on that infamous day. Today, thanks to international relief efforts, Phi Phi Island is making a strong comeback. Many hotels and resorts have been rebuilt and more are on the way. In a way, the Tsunami was a mixed blessing. Although the loss of life was tragic, much of the over-commercial development was erased and the island has returned to a much more natural state.

Ton Sai, the main village on Phi Phi Don, has a great selection of amenities for the traveller. Restaurants serve good quality Thai and Western food, there is a small market area whose primary wares are jewellery and handicrafts as well as CDs and DVDs and bungalows and guest houses abound, catering to a wide range of clientele.

At night Phi Phi is in permanent party mode, and the beachfront bars and clubs open up to welcome the mostly young crowd. Spectacular fire shows are common, performed to thumping beats laid down by Thai and foreign DJs and large crowds come out to dance the night away, fuelled by copious amounts of alcohol, especially the notorious ‘buckets’.

During the day there are plenty of activities on offer for those who wish to do more than recover from the previous night. Snorkelling and diving are by far the most popular and dive shops are in abundance offering courses and day trips to the spectacular underwater locales. Other popular activities include rock climbing, visits to the beaches of the nearby islands and sea kayaking. The short trip to the viewpoint behind Ton Sai village is highly recommended as it provides stunning vistas of the twin bays of Ton Sai and Lodhalum. Go early in the morning or in the afternoon to avoid the blistering midday heat.

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Travellers footage: Phi Phi Ley - Maya bay 360

Getting to Phi Phi

Daily ferries to Phi Phi leave from Radsada Harbour in Phuket Town. There are two departures daily, at 08:30 and 13:30. The trip takes about an hour and a half and the fare is around 350 baht for a one way ticket and 650 baht for an open-ended return ticket. Most hotels and tour companies will arrange for a free transfer from your hotel to the harbour and back.

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